Category Climbing
A Fleeting Moment of Glory
That which we seek is only a fleeting moment of glory. Every race, every route, every summit – we grasp and we aspire for what is JUST out of reach. Minutes, hours, days, weeks, months, years – all spent in search of that one transient moment. But a new goal replaces every success. We need […]
Scottish Winter
Below is a link to a piece I wrote about my recent trip to Scotland. It’s worth checking out for the pictures alone! Scottish Winter And for those looking for something you won’t find there on NEice… proof that I saw something other than the inside of a cloud and a reason to go back:
Beyond the Pale
“You’re the only one who didn’t know you had it in you.” Last year I finally climbed Repentance. This was a three or four year process for me: partners bailing, unfavorable conditions, and my own fear all colluded to keep me from venturing up that pillar off the first belay ledge. When I finally did […]
The Heretic
Here is a post I wrote for NEice.com: Heresy: An unorthodox practice, publicly avowed, and obstinately defended. Heretic: One who carries out the above; traditionally burned alive as penalty for sins. THE HERETIC article by Patrick Cooke ***** There’s a particular dogma within our community that drives us and binds us together: get out […]
Tolerance for Adversity
Below is a presentation I gave to the entire school today. A lot of it is stuff I’ve written before, but with a slightly different slant: “I thought Terror was in the Southern Pickets” The winds are picking up, buffeting our tent. Perhaps “tent” is too strong a word. It’s a pyramid-shaped tarp draped […]
Revisiting Footwork
Sometimes you need to embrace the cold, but there’s nothing pleasant about freezing your ass off. If you want to warm up, move! If the way ahead looks difficult, “Take a deep breath, relax your grip, look around, and find your feet.” – Almost a year later, this is still the piece that speaks to […]
Overcoming Fear
On our third day in the Canadian Rockies I backed off of the second pitch of Whiteman Falls. Whiteman was undoubtedly the hardest pure ice line I’d ever attempted to climb, but the truth of the matter is that I retreated not because the climbing was hard, but because I was scared. Even from the base, […]
Weeping Wall
I had a great post written on my phone here but it of course randomly deleted 95% of it when it was mostly done… So fuck it… I’ll write it when I’m home and have a computer. Haiku version: Whiteman redemption On Weeping Wall almost whip Mentally stronger Lots to tell about today, but it […]
Canadian Stoke
I think the last post had people worrying about me and how I’m feeling… I’m good, and here’s part of the reason why: http://images.summitpost.org/original/253953.jpg Check it out! 10 days of climbing in the Canadian Rockies coming up before I head back to work (which I’m actually looking forward to). All the climbing has been good […]
Fear
This was supposed to be the easy line. Soft sticks, a fun groove, and good stems made for fun climbing. Somewhere along the way though, everything changed – Now I’m 20 feet out from my last screw snd I’m absolutely terrified. ***** How did I even end up here? Chris started the line but decided […]
Taking the Sharp End 
